The Peruvian Rain Forest

We flew into Puerto Maldonado and were transferred to a floating dock, accessible by a narrow plank with no railings.  We all managed to avoid an unplanned swim and traveled roughly forty-five minutes along the Madre de Dios river to the Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, a well-appointed lodge in the midst of the Tambopata National Park.  Our wooden casitas were positioned along the riverbank and offered great views of the sunrise over the wide, sparkling river. 

 

Puerto Maldonado dock

The derivation of the river's name is interesting.  Our guide explained that the ironwood tree, indigenous to the area, contains enough iron to disrupt a compass and that early Spanish explorers/conquerors would become lost in the rain forest.  Only when they found the river would they have a chance of survival, and so it was gratefully christened "the Mother of God."

In the afternoon, we enjoyed a few chilcanos, a pisco cocktail made with lime juice and ginger ale, and took a boat ride at twilight, spotting both caimans and capybaras along the shore.  In the morning, we visited isolated Lake Sandoval, a gorgeous body of water that we reached via a boat ride followed by a nearly two-mile hike along a muddy, pitted trail.  It rained gently during our excursion and we welcomed the respite from the usually unrelenting tropical heat.  Although we did not spot any monkeys or anacondas, we did encounter the endangered giant river otter.  Later, we had the pleasure of meeting the resort's pet tapir, which was found alone in the wild as an infant and now makes its home on the grounds. 

 

 

Capybara

 

Caiman

Creek leading to Lake Sandoval

 

Giant River Otters

 

Caiman

A highlight of the trip was the Inkaterra Canopy Walkway experience, which involved negotiating a series of suspended bridges hanging approximately seventy-five feet above the forest floor.  Although we didn't spy any animals, the view of the seemingly endless sea of green was fascinating. Our day culminated with a cocktail hour on an expansive stretch of unspoiled sand to view the sunset.  Not only was the sky at dusk simply stunning, but we were fortunate to also have a full moon to illuminate the night sky. 

 

 

Enjoying our surroundings, with a fine cigar and a pisco cocktail

 

Hoping to spot an anaconda in the wild, we visited Gamitana Creek, accessible by boat from the lodge.  Instead, we encountered a few caimans, one over six feet in length, and a seeming flock of a colorful, inedible bird affectionately referred to by locals as the "stinky bird."  Following the creek, we toured a garden where native plants, trees, and orchids are cultivated.  The visit was eye-opening, as we learned of the medicinal purposes of many species.  We tasted one, used to relieve pain, and it seemed as though our mouths had been injected with Novocain.   Other plants could be mixed with liquid or simply rubbed on the skin to create bright colors. 

 

Gamitana Creek

 

Stinky Birds

We learned that the Brazil nut is harvested in the wild, as commercial production has not been successful.  The shell of the nut is extremely hard and, our guide claimed, more people are killed each year by nuts falling from the towering tree than are killed by jaguars.  The flowers of the tree can be pollinated only by a certain type of bee and is an interesting example of the fragility of life in the Amazon.  As mining, farming, and logging continue to encroach on the rain forest, the risk of losing species such as the Brazil nut remains very real.

 

A 'walking tree'--the roots will search out water, moving the tree over time

 

Even with a machete, it took some effort to hack through the shell

Our rain forest adventure concluded with a night tour of the jungle.  Venturing along a narrow, dirt trail, our path haphazardly lit by the narrow beams of flashlights, was an experience.  Conscious of snakes and spiders--and we spotted plenty of the latter, including a tarantula--each step was one taken carefully.  Every brush against a stray branch or twig conjured an image of something else.  We also saw colorful frogs that exude a poison through their skin; indigenous peoples dip sharp thorns into the poison and use the barbs as darts or arrows to paralyze game.  One member of our group, misunderstanding the guide's directions, darted off the path and into the brush.  He returned sporting several sharp thorns protruding from his shirt.  At one point, the guide has us turn off the flashlights and, with the canopy blotting out all starlight, we were immediately enveloped in pitch black. 

 

Tarantula

 

 

Brilliant emerald frog

 

After a nightcap (or two) in the main lodge, we adjourned for the evening to pack and prepare for the next leg of our trip: the Sacred Valley. 

Peru!

Our first stop on our two-week adventure was the capitol city of Lima, a bustling metropolis of nearly nine million inhabitants.  We stayed at the Belmond Miraflores hotel, in the upscale Miraflores ("look at the flowers") district.  The hotel is near the trendy multi-level Larcomar mall that hugs the face of the windswept cliff affords a panoramic view of the Pacific.  From the mall, we could see the La Rosa Nautica restaurant situated on a pier far below.  We enjoyed dinner there one evening, consuming our fair share of Lima's justly famous ceviche. 

 

 

La Rosa Nautica

We had limited time to explore Lima and, with the help of a great guide, packed in a full day of sightseeing, beginning with the massive Plaza Mayor.  We enjoyed a stroll through the Plaza and viewed the changing of the guard at the President's residence, the Palacio de Gobierno.  Subsequently, we walked along the pedestrian thoroughfare, Jiron de la Union, and toured the Casa de Aliaga, the oldest piece of family-owned real estate in South America.  Jeronimo de Aliaga was one of Francisco Pizarro's lieutenants and erected the home in 1535.  It is still occupied by his descendants and is a spectacular showcase of Colonial architecture. 

                                                                       Plaza Mayor

 

Jiron de la Union

                                                             Interior of Casa de Aliaga

 

Our lunch was at the Café de Museo restaurant, housed within the Museo Larco and overlooking the beautiful gardens.  The Museum houses a spectacular collection of gold, silver, and textiles and is organized so that a visitor may appreciate pre-Incan cultures as well as the scale of the Incan empire.  There is also a popular display of erotic sculpture, a testament to the imagination and flexibility of ancient Peruvians. 

 

Museo Larco

 

Cafe de Museo

Traveler's Tip:  Municipal law bans the sale of alcohol 48 hours prior to any election.  Unfortunately, we arrived just before the mayoral election and encountered the ban.  But...we learned of the no-alcohol rule prior to arrival and averted disaster by scoring bottles of our favorite beverages at the duty-free shop before leaving the U.S. 

Bermuda--Hamilton and St. George's

Hamilton, Bermuda's largest city, bustles with tourists and local businesspeople on the go.  Local men take great pride in sporting their Bermuda shorts, and you'll see several nattily attired gents navigating their way through town.  Hamilton is jammed with shops ranging from high-end brand names to local tourist venues, and restaurants run the gamut as well. 

Front Street, easily accessed from the ferry terminal, makes for a fun stroll.  Only blocks from the terminal is the Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity, a gothic-style edifice erected in the late nineteenth century. The Barracuda Grill served a terrific dinner--Rockfish is a local specialty, and the dish here was fantastic.  The adjacent Hog Penny Pub was perfect for a pre-dinner cocktail, and late night martinis in the bar at the Fairmont Hamilton Princess were perfect.  Travelers will note the near absence of fast food restaurants, which locals believe would diminish the Bermudian experience. 

Hog Penny Pub

 

Barracuda foie gras terrine

 

 

Dessert

As busy as Hamilton is, St. George's swings in the opposite direction and seems a tiny community locked in the past.  The settlement of Bermuda began here, in 1609, when a ship carrying supplies to Jamestown, Virginia, floundered on the reefs.  St. George's served as the capital until 1815.  A few highlights include the delightful Somer's Garden and the Unfinished Church, which has sat uncompleted since the late 1800's due to storm damage and disagreements among parishioners.  A charming structure is the aged St. Peter's Church which, together with the surrounding graveyard, offer great photo opportunities.  A fine restaurant in St. George's is Wahoo's Bistro, with dockside seating.

 

St. Peter's Church

 

 

Interior

 

Interior

 

 

Somer's Garden

 

Unfinished Church

Miscellaneous Notes:  A bit off the path, but worthy of a stop, is the Fourways Inn, an elegant restaurant housed in a 17th century building.  The overloaded tables at brunch are highly recommended, and definitely try the traditional cod and potato dish, served with avocado and eggs on the side.  Another restaurant of note is the Waterlot Inn, housed in a handsome building which dates from 1670.  One word here: steaks.  Oops--three words:  martinis, steaks, and wine. 

 

Meat Station at Brunch

 

Brunch

 

Fourways Inn

 

 

Bar at Waterlot Inn

 

Main Dining room

 

Bar

 

Indoor Patio

 

 

 

Bermuda-The Dockyard and West End

As we lingered in the infinity pool at the Cambridge Beach Resort, lazily gazing at the watercraft bobbing in the turquoise Atlantic waters, we chided ourselves for waiting so long to finally visit Bermuda.  Our Dark 'n Stormy cocktail, crafted with Bermuda's own Gosling's Black Seal Rum, was refreshing and we knew that we would not stop at just one.  And why rush?  Bermuda is, indeed, a country to savor at a leisurely pace. 

The Cambridge is located near the Royal Navy Dockyard, which for more than 150 years after the American Revolution was the seat of British Naval power in the western Atlantic.  Today, the fortified complex hosts an interesting mix of shops, tourist attractions, and restaurants.  One of our favorite stops was the Frog and Onion Pub, inside the former cooperage building, which maintains a lively atmosphere within the stout stone walls.  The restaurant is a partnership between a Frenchman ("Frog") and a Bermudian, who are often called 'Onions' because the nation once exported quantities of the bulbs.  The nineteenth-century Clocktower Mall is also interesting. 

With its narrow roads and hectic local traffic (tourists may rent mopeds, not autos), Bermuda does not appear an inviting place to bike or walk.  However, the former Bermuda Railway track, which set idle for years when rail service was discontinued in 1948, has been paved over and runs nearly the length of the island.  No motor vehicles are allowed and, for long stretches, the tranquil path offers panoramic ocean views.  In the West End, you can depart the trail and hike uphill to Fort Scaur, erected in the 1860's to safeguard against possible American assaults.  The views are stunning and acres of well-maintained gardens surround the fort. 

 

 

Water-based activities are abundant, ranging from snorkeling to sailing to jet skis, and spending some time exploring deserted coves or pink sand beaches is not to be missed.  When taxiing about the island, keep an eye out for "moongates", stone arches which are thought to bring good fortune and are often featured in wedding photographs.  Also, note the white-painted roofs on most houses, which are designed to collect rainwater in large tanks beneath the homes--an important feature, given that Bermuda has no natural source of fresh water.