Sunday, April 21, 2019

Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

More than 3,000 limestone islands are sprinkled throughout the Gulf of Tonkin in this stunning bay, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.

                                                                Kayaking in the Bay

Oyster Farm

View at Dusk

                                                      A popular attraction, for sure!

Hauntingly beautiful, the popularity of Ha Long Bay is understandable. A definite must for any Vietnam itinerary!

Tuesday, April 9, 2019


Hanoi has a frenetic pace that never seems to diminish. From the roar of countless scooters racing along narrow streets, to the din of row after row of street food vendors, to the warren of shops and restaurants seemingly tossed together at whim, it is a fun, exciting city. With a population approaching 8 million, it is also Vietnam's second largest.

I stayed at the venerable colonial era Sofitel Legend Metropole in the French Quarter, a stately property with a beautiful courtyard and pool.

We visited the euphemistically-named Hanoi, Hilton, the infamous prison which housed American POWs during the Vietnam War, including Senator John McCain. Before that conflict, the prison was used by French authorities to imprison Vietnamese political prisoners. Conditions were barbaric.

Far more uplifting was a visit to the 900-year-old Temple of Literature, mobbed by students. It is a tradition for them to rub ancient stone turtles for luck.

The one-pillar pagoda was, according to legend, erected by Emperor Ly Thai Tong in appreciation to the peasant woman whom he married and who bore him a child. The French destroyed the original in 1954 as they were evacuating Vietnam. The current single pillar is made of concrete and rises from a pond. The tiny pagoda atop the pillar is accessible by a flight of stairs.
The Hanoi Opera House is a striking example of French Colonial era architecture

Although it is not possible to visit, the Presidential Palace is another beautiful reminder of the French Colonial era

Nearby is the residence used by Ho Chi Minh from 1954 until his passing in 1969. It is said that he would daily feed the carp in the nearby pond and summon them by clapping his hands. The house itself, on stilts, is quite simple.

We visited the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, where he lies displayed in state. Security is extremely tight, and no photographs are allowed inside.

The Vietnamese people of today are very tourist friendly, and I sensed no animosity toward Americans. Indeed, 75% of the Vietnamese population were born after the Vietnam war. They are very proud of the fact that they succeeded against all who at one time occupied their country: the Chinese, the Japanese, the French and the Americans, and successfully united North and South. But one guide explained that they now view what happened in a historical context and look toward to the future.

No visit to Hanoi would be complete without a street food tour. I opted for a night walking tour through the Old Quarter and followed my guide through hidden passageways to sample as much food as I could possibly consume: papaya with dried beef salad, grilled pork with rice noodles, spring rolls, the ubiquitous Vietnamese sandwich Banh mi, etc. Oh, and freshly brewed beer. As the evening ended, we enjoyed an egg coffee. The story goes that milk was in short supply in the early 1900's, so a chef at the Metropole Hanoi substituted whisked egg yolk. Delicious! The Vietnamese traditionally share their food, so fast-food hamburger chains have not been very successful. Fried chicken chains, such as Kentucky Fried Chicken, are popular.

Scooters and bicycles transport everything!

Egg Coffee
A few photos in Old Town at night


Sunday, April 7, 2019

Seoul, South Korea

                                    Downtown Seoul, Gangnam District, view from Park Hyatt

Seoul is a bustling urban area with a vibrant energy that is reminiscent of Tokyo. It is the fourth largest metropolitan economy in the world and is a fascinating blend of ancient traditions and modern amenities.
Entrance to a home in a traditional neighborhood
The Gyeongbokgung, the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty, makes for a captivating visit. The sheer size and scope of the complex is amazing, and the changing of the guard ceremony is colorful and impressive.

It is very common for Koreans to rent traditional clothing and wear it while visiting the palace.
Korea has a unique written language, usually credited to the revered King Sejong the Great who developed it in the 15th century. It is apparently one of the easiest written languages to comprehend, as there is a direct relationship between the shape of the letter and the shape the mouth makes when pronouncing it.
King Sejong statute
My guide purchasing some dried persimmon, a popular street food snack

                                                        A traditional Korean teahouse

                                                              Lunch: Korean barbeque

                      The central market in Seoul sells EVERYTHING! Quite an experience.

Making one of the several varieties of Kim Chee
Seoul was a terrific, if hectic, one day visit. My thanks to guide Pam K. of Tours by Locals for a great tour!