The Temples of Nikko

We opted for a tour bus to take in the many sites of Nikko, a few house drive north of Tokyo. Few trips have been so worth taking. Nikko was chosen as the location for the mausoleum of the powerful shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu following his death in 1616. His grandson subsequently engaged 15,000 craftsmen to work on the project and the result is, in a word, incredible. Three gigantic golden Buddhas, their gilt shimmering even in the shadows, are arranged side-by-side in the first mammoth temple, Rinno-ji. Their dark eyes seem to stare as visitors shuffle along the aged wooden floors.

Exiting the temple, a dirt and stone road slopes upward toward a towering stone torii that sweeps overhead. After passing a five-story pagoda, a bright spectacle of red and yellow and green, a set of stone steps end in a courtyard bounded by three elaborate storehouses and the sacred stables, or Shinkyusha. The stables are noteworthy for the series of bas-relief panels depicting a sequence of monkeys, which were believed to protect horses. One colorful panel has a trio of monkeys in the famous "Hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil" pose.

Passing beneath a bronze torii, it is impossible to tear one's eyes away from one of the most dazzling structures I've ever seen, the Yomeimon Gate of Sunlight. More than 400 carvings, an indescribable array of gape-mouthed dragons, serene lions, detailed flowers, and Chinese figures, adorn the ornate structure. A dull white coloring, derived from oyster shells, catches the light in a way that seems to make the Gate gleam. The detail is so extraordinary that one column was intentionally installed upside down to appease the gods, lest they take offense at the ostentatious display.

Hunter and I made the trek uphill, on a series of thick stone steps,to see the Shogun's austere shrine. We enjoyed the view as the leaves were changing color and the woods rippled with bright hues of red and yellow, a particularly attractive sight when we could glimpse the gold-trimmed roofs of the temple complex below.

Reluctantly, we left for a drive through Nikko National Park but were rewarded with some truly beautiful scenes. Lake Chuzenji-ko, reached after a drive up the mountain on a series of over twenty switchbacks, is a delightful resort lake popular with foreign embassy staffs. Nearby is the Kegon-no-Taki waterfall, which elegantly cascades more than three hundred feet over the dark walls of the cliff. We left the park, and more than twenty hairpin curves back down the mountain, to check in for the evening at the Kanaya Hotel. The venerable Kanaya was the first hotel in the area to host western visitors and is where General McArthur stayed when he visited Nikko during the occupation.

Near the hotel is the Shin-kyo, a graceful vermillion bridge crossing the Daiya-gawa River. With the mountain range sweeping skyward in the distance, the scene really is the stuff of postcards. We enjoyed a traditional Japanese dinner that evening, a kaiseki, where we set on cushions atop tatami mats at a restaurant called Gyoshin-Tei. The establishment had no sign, and we initially thought that we had arrived at a private residence. We were warmly greeted, however, by kimono-clad waitresses and every delicious course was presented like a work of art on a platter.

We ended the evening back at the hotel and the clubby Dacite Bar, replete withndark wood, a stone floor and fireplace, and dim lighting. The talented bartender, nicknamed the 'Maestro' by Hunter, took good care of us and played Sinatra tunes on the bar's record player. Yes, record player and Sinatra. It was that kind of place.
shrine.

Tokyo bar-hopping and Ueno

The night Hunter arrived, we met with our guide for the evening, Charlie of Bespoke Tokyo. British by birth, Charlie has some business interests in Japan, including arranging interesting tours. Our request was simple:show us some fun bars. Charlie delivered. We began with a stand-up sake bar in Shibuya, where we wedged in and enjoyed a drink in what might have been one of the most narrow bars I've seen. We headed down the road to an unassuming restaurant with great food. We enjoyed fish-liver foie gras, amazing eggplant drenched in a white and black miso sauce, and huge baked oysters. We wandered from there to a couple of other really different bars, including one that spans three floors but can accommodate no more than five people per floor. It was in a rickety-looking old building on a street lined with similar structures and we had a ball. Of course, several glasses of sake helped. Our nightcap was on a patio of an office tower bar, forty two stories up, with spectacular views of the Tokyo skyline.

Hunter and I popped up the next morning and took the train to Ueno, an area of Tokyo we had not visited before. We enjoyed the temples in Ueno-koen Park and the famous Shinobazu lotus pond. We finished up in Yanaka, on a street probably no more than eight feet wide and lined with shops and restaurants. This local market, which looks like a movie set, is known as the Yanaka Ginza, an allusion to the high-end shopping district in Tokyo.

The evening brought us to Seryna restaurant in the Rippongi district. Hunter enjoyed toro tuna as an appetizer and I had the unattractively named, and unattractive but delicious, horsehair crab. The main course, Kobe beef sukiyaki, was spectacular. The first delicate slices were served with onions, followed in order by tofu, mushrooms and rice noodles. And, of course, a raw egg for dipping. Oh, and everything washed down with a great sake.

We went for a few drinks afterwards, enjoying the view from Mori Tower in Rippongi. We followed with a drink at a small bar, on the second floor, that Hunter spotted from the
street. The waitresses at Bar Blu spoke little English but were attentive and the decor was cool--an aluminum topped bar and tables, all framed in black. The bar faces the street through a wall of glass interlaced with white shelving holding all the bottles of liquor, and everything was bathed in the glow of soft blue lighting. We enjoyed a nightcap and went back to the hotel, ready for a night's sleep and looking forward to visiting the temples of Nikko.

Japanese Hostess Clubs

I had an experience along the way that warrants special comment--an invitation by one of our hosts in Japan to be his guest at a hostess club. It was an interesting evening and, I've been told, quite an honor to be invited. My host took me to what he described as the best club in the city and, when we entered, he was warmly greeted by a kimono-clad lady who obviously ran the place, and a young man in a tuxedo. Upon seeing me, however, their expressions changed. They informed my host that they were full for the evening, and he was not happy. It was obvious that they did not want a non-Japanese guest. A heated discussion ensued but, eventually, I followed my host out the door. He was on the phone immediately and led me through the streets, packed with cars and people and bright, garish lights everywhere.

The club he contacted had a man--again wearing a tux--greet us at the door. He led us down a winding staircase and into a room that looked like upscale clubs everywhere. Leather sofas, wooden tables, and thick carpeting. And pretty women. Lots of them, some wearing kimonos and others in contemporary dress. Four of them joined us immediately, including one who had lived for a while in Colorado and spoke excellent English. My host had clearly arranged for her to join us. We spent at least two hours engaged in pleasant conversation, with the former Colorado resident translating for everyone. The ladies poured all of our drinks, served snacks, and made it seem like everything we said was the epitome of wit. The 'mama-san' joined us, one of the ladies presented me with a fan as a gift, and we all bid each other good night. During the entire time we were in the club, there was not a hint of anything improper.

I have learned that such clubs are status symbols, in a way. My host probably spent two thousand dollars making sure that I was entertained, and it is a mark of prestige that he was able to do so. He observed that we have nothing similar to hostess clubs in the States and I could not disagree. All in all, it was a fascinating evening and a rare experience. As I walked back to the hotel, I thought of stopping for a nightcap. Through an open doorway, I spotted a bar and strolled in. Apparently, it was another hostess club because a young man in a tux quickly appeared and stepped in front of me. "So sorry," he said. "Japanese only.". Suddenly able to understand the effect of Jim Crow laws much better, I nodded and walked out.

I have learned that such discrimination is not uncommon in Japan. Some top-end restaurants and clubs are restricted to Japanese people. Although incredibly gracious hosts, there are certain aspects of Japanese life and culture that are reserved for the Japanese.

Next up: Hunter joins me in Tokyo and we have a couple of great days before meandering north to experience the wonders of Nikko.

Hakone to Osaka--and Live Squid and Raw Horse in Fukuoka

We traveled to Hakone on the 'Romance Train' from Shinjuku station in Tokyo. Frankly, I didn't see what made the car romantic at all, although I admire the efficiency of the train system. The trains are on time, clean, and comfortable. Our hotel, the venerable Hakone Hotel, sits on the site of the original hotel that was opened near the turn of the century. It is literally steps from the calm waters of Lake Ashino and, across the water, looms the snow-capped peak of Mount Fuji. The day of our arrival, the weather was crystal-clear and our view of the mountain was captivating. The water was a bright blue, dotted with fishing boats and tourist vessels made to look like pirate ships. One look at Mt. Fuji and it is easy to see why it has captured the imagination over the centuries.

In the morning, before our early departure, I stole a few minutes to walk a bit on what is supposedly the oldest path in Japan, connecting various towns and temples. The path begins on the edge of Hakone and, within minutes, I found myself enveloped in trees as the morning light managed to glimmer through branches and leaves. I stumbled upon a weathered Shinto Gate and, beyond, a series of five stone sculptures. One, the head and torso of a male figure, was nearly covered in moss and looked haunting in the shadows and utter quiet of the woods.

I rejoined the group and we left for Osaka and an overnight stay ay the Osaka Hilton. The schedule was tight as I had to depart to deliver a lecture to the entire staff of Baba Memorial Hospital, a 250 bed facility on the outskirts of Osaka. Following the lecture, Dr. Baba hosted a party for us with an open bar and plenty of food. We had a great time, sampled some interesting food, and enjoyed chatting with our Japanese counterparts.

The next morning, we presented the entire seminar-- five speakers, from 10:00--4:00--to about 120 attendees. As the bell tolled at 4:00, we were hustled to the station to catch a late train for our final destination, Fukuoka, and a two night stay at the Hotel Nikko Hakata. Dinner that night was fascinating. We accompanied our host and guide to a local restaurant and he ordered for us. The first of several courses, in a very traditional restaurant where not a word anywhere was in English, included squid so fresh that the head, it's eyes moving and tentacles thrashing, squirmed about next to the fresh meat we were to consume. When we finished that, they took our hapless squid back to the kitchen to cook up the rest of him. That gave our guide time to point out that a special dish for the evening was horse carpaccio. Having never tasted horse, let alone raw, it seemed like the thing to do at the time. Perhaps it was the sake. None of us could really distinguish it from beef, but it was an experience. At least no one led a horse from the kitchen.

We delivered our final lecture Sunday morning and enjoyed a farewell banquet in the form of a Chinese dinner where much beer and wine were served and gifts exchanged. These people have been so hospitable and friendly that it is hard bidding farewell, and our American delegation got along great. All in all, it was one memorable trip.

I left the others to join my stepson, Hunter, in Tokyo and now await his arrival. We're off tonight for a tour of bars that are supposedly far removed from the beaten path. Stay tuned. Things could get interesting...